As more men do the grocery shopping, how are stores responding?

News flash! Men are doing more of the grocery shopping than ever before.

The story from the LA Times’  Emily Bryson York that ran in the business section of today’s Statesman certainly isn’t a revelation, but it’s nice to see news articles about how our domestic roles are changing. York’s news hook isn’t just that more men are shopping; she wanted to find out how grocery stores and manufacturers were responding to this change.

She only found a few that were making minor changes to accommodate men, who, according to one source in the story, “were terribly uncomfortable with the shopping experience.” Proctor and Gamble started playing around with “man aisles” in 2009, which grouped the personal care products targeted toward men in a single place instead of spread across the entire health-care section. Whee, so exciting, I know.

She tracked down a VP of “breakthrough innovation” at Kraft Foods Inc. who was quite proud of the “liquid flavor droplets” that his company had come up with to make water more appealing.

With somewhere between 30 and 50 percent of men doing the primary shopping for their households, I can’t imagine that mega food companies like Kraft or P&G will stop with water-flavoring droplets.

My favorite part of the story came from Phil Lempert, a grocery store expert who has built a crazy successful  consulting business called the Supermarket Guru. I’ve interviewed him for stories before, and the man knows his grocery stores. Lempert pointed out that many men are cooking to connect with their kids and, if they happen to be victims of the “mancession,” help provide for their families even when they don’t have a paycheck coming in.

“It’s very different from the whole metrosexual phenomenon of six, seven, eight years ago, but a much more down-to-earth [approach], not trying to show off, but trying to be part of the family,” Lempert said.

The above photo appears to be from such a dad. Dave77459 of Houston posted this photo on Flickr way back in 2007 with the caption: “Hitting the grocery store after dance to stock up for the weekend. I have the kids which means food flies out of the larder.”

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A reminder about the Feminist Kitchen book club meeting this week: On Tuesday (Jan. 10), we’ll gather at 7 p.m. at Thrice Cafe, which is located in the former Cafe Caffeine space next to Thai Fresh at 909 W. Mary St., to talk about both the book and the movie adaptation of “The Help.” Even if you know the general idea of the plot, you’ll be able to follow along our discussion. Come have a glass of wine (or a beer or a pot of tea or a plateful of Thai food) and join us!

 

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How do you move beyond something like “Last Tango in Paris”?

If you haven’t seen The Scene (three words: sex, butter and Brando), then you’ve probably heard about it, and if you haven’t heard about it, then you’re probably better off.

It’s a vulgar movie. The true beginning of the end for Brando, who had become as loathsome as he was appealing in those first few films. The 19-year-old who played the young Parisian lover, Maria Scheider, died in February of last year.

In the New York Times Magazine’s year-end obituary issue, she was among the people whose lives were honored. Victims of the Joplin, Mo., tornado, the man who invented cryonics, Jack LaLane, and Schneider, whose will forever be remembered as the young woman in “Last Tango in Paris” who, to be frank, appeared to be sodomized by stick of butter. In the graphic scene I don’t care to watch again, her character’s unwillingness and her own unwillingness are the same. “I instinctively felt I would be the one to suffer for it,” she later said.

She got paid $4,000 to play that role, a pittance compared to the wealth it earned Brando. She did star in another movie with an A-List chauvinist, Jack Nicholson, in “The Passenger,” but, like the majority of actresses in Hollywood, had a hard time finding decent work after the twenty-something glow wore off. (She even worked for an organization that helped older actors find work.)

As author Susan Dominus points out, the men (Brando and director Bernardo Bertolucci, specifically) around her, who were as much paternal figures as colleagues, failed to protect her and she didn’t feel she could get out of the situation. This movie would be her breakout role, and she knew that you don’t just have to be sexy, you have to be but edgy and shocking, too.

But it went too far, and she knew it. They knew it, too, but Bertolucci didn’t even hint at apologizing until after her death.

Artists, especially young starlets in the public eye, will always challenge the norm, and I think they should. That’s where innovation comes from. But the Joaquin Phoenix stunt, the Olsen twin-Kisses-Ben-Kingsley scene, Lady GaGa’s whole persona, et al, didn’t do what this single scene did to this woman.

My only solace after I read the NYT piece was to realize that I don’t think a scene like this would fly today. Not that seriously kinky, weird shit isn’t happening in the very vast world of porn, but I don’t think such relatively mainstream actors, directors and producers would go that far. There are more women in power and, while we seem to have an increased desire for graphic sex, nudity and near-nudity (like the almost bare-breasted pinup at a new fried chicken restaurant in Austin and the dancing women in bikinis on the Mexican variety shows on TV), my instinct says we have a lower tolerance for twisted sexual violence. (I did, however, once see a man raped by a horse on a Spanish-language telanovela in the middle of the day. That, I cannot explain.)

Bernardo Bertolucci was so proud that he’d sexualized something as commonplace as a stick of butter, an already slippery ingredients that had long been used as a lubricant and didn’t need sexualizing. It was about taking a woman’s dignity and capturing it on camera.

Even though Nigella Lawson insisted that her lusty caramel cover shoot was anything but food porn and we all knew better, she was still in control over that image. Rachael Ray has said she’d do the infamous FHM shoot again. Paula Deen can throw the butter sex joke right back at Maxim magazine.

Schneider didn’t seem to get that chance. “I was with Maria when she saw the film for the first time,” her best friend is quoted as saying on Schneider’s IMDB page. “She was absolutely shocked. She had no idea what they were going to do with her. She ran from the cinema screaming and I had to run after her into the street and comfort her. That film ruined her life.”

I’d like to think that as ridiculous as things can seem now in this whole world of women and food, at least it’s better than it was. Rest in peace, Maria Schneider.

Photos from IMDB.com, Daily Mail and by Addie Broyles.

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Guess who is missing from Guess Who?

Julian recently got the newest edition of Guess Who?, a favorite game of my own childhood.

It’s always interesting to see how such games evolve. Most of the time, like with the new Candyland, they pale in comparison to the original.

But Guess Who? is — or rather it’s development crew is — downright baffling in it’s inability to evolve. The game consists of 24 characters. Each player secretly picks one, and you ask elimination questions to try to guess the other’s choice.

When I was a kid, the diversity of characters was predictably out of balance, with an emphasis on white men, of course. It’s almost 2012, and this is passes for realistic in my kid’s fictional Guess Who? world:

Almost half of the characters (10 of 24) have facial hair…

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and only five of the 24 are women.

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This has nothing to do with food, but it annoys me all the same.

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Non-cooks are welcome here, too

Image from Picky Grouchy Non-Cook.

I found myself having lunch this week with my boss.

Not just my immediate boss or her boss, but the boss’s boss’s boss. Turns out, she’s a nice woman who is doing her best to lead the company in trying times.

I can’t remember what made me mention The Feminist Kitchen, but as soon as I did, she offered up that she doesn’t cook. Period. She even told a story about screwing up cheese toast for her daughter. She didn’t sound apologetic, but certainly confessional, and I went out of my way to try not to make her feel badly for not enjoying or knowing much about cooking.

And then I read this New York Times story by Jennifer Steinhaur complaining about the lack of homecooked foods at potlucks and bake sales. You lazy, misguided women, she seemed to be saying. You must not love your children or the women who cooked before you enough to prepare food from scratch when it matters most: When other people can judge you for what you do (or don’t) make.

Emily Matchar has written a much more thorough post about the ridiculousness of the article (what’s next? Complaints about moms who don’t sew their kids’ clothes?) on her wonderful New Domesticity blog, but for the purposes of this space, the article reminded me of all the times I’ve been trying to make non-cooks around me not feel badly for being non-cooks. Maybe it’s the holidays or the fact that I called this blog The Feminist Kitchen and not The Feminist Eater, but it seems like I’ve had a dozen exchanges recently like the one this week with powerful, enlightened women who throw down the guises and say — in the face of this growing food movement that includes too much shaming of people who either don’t cook or don’t know much about, say, sushi — “I don’t cook.”

Last month, another proud non-cook, Evan Harris, emailed me about her site, Picky Grouchy Non-Cook, which is part blog, part resource for other non-cooks. She has a series of profiles of non-cooks to help prove that “just because you are lame in the kitchen does not mean you are lame in life,” and an FAQ and manifesto that dig deeper into the psychology of what it’s like being a non-cook today. (Harris hints that non-cooks are as ostracized as smokers.)

The longer I’m in this food writing business, the more I see how snobbish even the well-meaning food world can be. There are lots of ways to keep yourself challenged and engaged with the world around you. Food is just one of them, but if it’s not at the top of your priority list, that doesn’t make you any less of a feminist in this kitchen.

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Bonus reading for January book club, plus a field trip to BookPeople for “A Mess of Greens”


If my pre-Kindergarten son can get 14 pages of homework over Thanksgiving break, I don’t feel too badly suggesting bonus reading for our January book club meeting.

Last week, I posted about our January 10 meeting in which we’ll be discussing “The Help,” both the movie and the book, including the controversies surrounding both. Earlier this year, Tulane professor Melissa Harris-Perry came out with a book called “Sister Citizen” that will add some depth to this conversation.

In her review for the San Francisco Chronicle, Tayari Jones explains why:

Perhaps because of the timing of the publication, there is a 500-pound pop-culture gorilla in the room that does not make it into the text: the blockbuster film “The Help.” Harris-Perry’s Twitter followers and viewers of MSNBC were witnesses to her outrage over the depiction of black women who worked as maids in the Jim Crow South. On television and in the twitterverse, she decried the lack of historical context in the feel-good film. She also argued that the way that black women see themselves was not truly addressed.

If this is the case, “Sister Citizen” serves as an antidote to “The Help.” In her discussion of the Mammy stereotype, Harris-Perry provides a particularly astute analysis of why the enduring image is so offensive. Unlike the loud-mouthed Sapphire and promiscuous Jezebel, Mammy embodies many positive attributes — she is kind, nurturing and capable in the kitchen. Indeed, many of the women in Harris-Perry’s study embrace these characteristics. What they reject is the idea that these traits that they so value about themselves are seen as benefits for families not their own.

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While you’re penciling in the Jan. 10 book club into your calendar (7 p.m. at Thrice Cafe, 909 W. Mary St.), mark down an event  at  7 p.m. on January 20 at BookPeople with Elizabeth Engelhardt, who recently wrote a book about gender in the South called “A Mess of Greens.” Edible Austin is sponsoring the event, which means there will be yummy things to nibble on and sip while Engelhardt discusses her book with fellow feminist foodies Carol Ann Sayle of Boggy Creek Farm and Stephanie McClenny of Confituras. Hope to see you there!

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January book club: “The Help”

I can’t believe November has almost ended and I still haven’t posted about the next book club. (I blame the Thanksgiving Staycation of 2011 in which I did such domestic tasks as knitting a scarf, building a chicken fence, eating slivers of pecan pie while standing in front of the fridge and watching as many Christmas movies as the boys would tolerate.)

My apologies, Feminist Kitchen book clubbers.

In an effort not to clog up an already busy month, we decided to skip December’s meeting and keep our eyes on Tuesday, January 10. For this meeting, let’s talk about “The Help,” the insanely popular 2009 book and 2011 movie that many of us have either already read/watched or at least heard something about.

I first wrote about “The Help” (the book) at the end of last year, and my glowing post (and later review of the movie in the Statesman) reflected the response that many youngish, middle class, white American woman had: Yay, isn’t it great that the racism reflected in this movie doesn’t exist anymore?!

So many people responded in this way that the Association of Black Women Historians wrote an open statement to fans, like me:

Despite efforts to market the book and the film as a progressive story of triumph over racial injustice, The Help distorts, ignores, and trivializes the experiences of black domestic workers. We are specifically concerned about the representations of black life and the lack of attention given to sexual harassment and civil rights activism. … In the end, The Help is not a story about the millions of hardworking and dignified black women who labored in white homes to support their families and communities. Rather, it is the coming-of-age story of a white protagonist, who uses myths about the lives of black women to make sense of her own. The Association of Black Women Historians finds it unacceptable for either this book or this film to strip black women’s lives of historical accuracy for the sake of entertainment.

Members of the ABWH certainly weren’t the only people who felt like “The Help” didn’t do anything but help white women feel better about themselves. Toni Tipton-Martin, an Austin food writer and historian, has spent years reviving the stories of real-life Minnys and Abilenes to break The Jemima Code, the mythology that still persists about black cooks in America. In her blog of the same name, she recently wrote about “The Help,” a woman named Idella Parker, who wrote about her experience as a maid for popular American novelist Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, and recent encounter with a black maid in uniform in New Orleans:

Though slightly distorted by the mist of a steamy humid morning, I can see a narrow black woman in uniform as she emerges from a dilapidated Chevy. She waves goodbye to the elder lady behind the steering wheel, makes her way up the cobblestone walk and knocks on the door of an opulent southern mansion. As I jog by, I extend morning greetings to them both and realize that while I have been straining to hear the voices of accomplished Louisiana cooks over the loud and unrelenting gaggle surrounding the record-breaking book and film, real women of color are still reporting to work in the homes of wealthy families in these “post racial” times.

I can’t wait to talk about this book and movie at our next gathering. The book club — 7 p.m. on Tuesday, January 10, at Thrice Cafe, 909 W. Mary St. — as always, is free and open to anyone.

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Guest Post: In feederism, getting off on gaining weight

Editor’s note: Ari LeVaux is a freelance food writer whose syndicated column, Flash in the Pan, runs in a number of papers around the country and on his website. He also writes food stories for the Atlantic and several other publications. I met LeVaux a few years ago at an Association of Food Journalists conference and have been impressed with his columns, which tackle everything from canning and processing his own chickens to food safety legislation and genetically modified pigs. But this column, about a sexual fetish called feederism related to obesity and overeating, really caught my eye, especially in light of the much more widely known fat acceptance movement. I asked LeVaux if I could republish the column here as a guest post for Feminist Kitchen readers interested in the connection food and sex, and he agreed. If you are interested in writing a guest post, email me at broylesa@gmail.com.

From time to time I like to cook my lady friend a nice meal and tell her “I’m gonna fatten you up for the slaughter.” But since I began researching the fat fetish known as feederism, in which weight gain is eroticized, I haven’t been able to keep a straight face while telling her my special sexy line.

In the feederism community, the gluttonous acts that produce fat are as alluring as the sagging, bulbous rolls of cellulose they produce. At the heart of feederism is the relationship between a gainer (or feedee), and a feeder (aka the encourager).
The feeder’s job is to help the gainer become fat, an arrangement that gives both parties satisfaction. A common aspiration among gainers is a state of immobility, where he or she is too fat to move around without help. At this point the assistance of the feeder becomes crucial. Immobility, according to many feeders and gainers, is the sexiest thing ever, though it’s rarely attained.

While the feeder/gainer relationship defines feederism, it’s but one of many ways people get off on weight gain. One self-identifying gainer named “Lisa,” who is married to a man, told researchers that she looks at pictures of fat women online several times a week, and masturbates.

This research appeared in an article “Feederism in a Woman” Archives of Sexual Behavior, 2009) by Lesley Terry and Paul Vasey of the University of Lethbridge. Lisa’s testimony is consistent with firsthand sources widely available on the many feederism websites, forums and chat rooms that exist.

During a period of active weight gain Lisa claims to have enjoyed great erotic pleasure, especially when weighing and measuring herself, but she ultimately gave up her gains over health concerns.

As I learned in a chat room on the website Fantasy Feeder, some gainers are terrified of doctors, thanks to the obesity-related diseases that plague the feeder community, including heart and circulatory problems and diabetes. One chatter with swollen ankles lamented, “my doctor says I have the feet of someone 200 lbs heavier.”

Lisa knew the risks, but when she experienced compromised immunity and extreme loss of energy she knew she had to get out. She slimmed down, got married, and started nourishing her inner feedee online.

“Lisa’s ideal website would have several pictures of the same woman over the course of the model’s weight gain so that she could see the progressive changes in the model’s shape and size. She said she was aroused by ‘the shapes of their bodies,’” wrote the researchers.

While sitting around and being fed, or stuffing your own face, might seem to be the epitome of sloth, many successful gainers describe their practice as hard work. Forum discussions about how to pack it on and keep it on are mirror images of the diet tips and theories shared in forums for people who want to get and stay thin.

Before her stint as a gainer, Lisa had a bout with anorexia. This is not uncommon. Feederism and anorexia share an obsession with body image and food, and both have their erotic elements.

Online gainer forums are filled with people discussing their weight gain goals. “I’m still testing this out but my preferred weight is somewhere between 250 and 300 pounds. Ideally I would like to be heavy enough to have a belly that touches my thighs when I stand up,” wrote one.

Another: “I would sell my soul if I could weigh 1500 to 1600.”

There are also recipe forums, where tips on 3,000-calorie smoothies are shared. And there are forums for lactose- and gluten-intolerant gainers, as well as diabetic gainers (of which there are many).

It’s tempting to look for a link between rising obesity rates and feederism. And maybe one exists. Certainly, the availability of cheap junk food enables those with obese intentions.

A man who goes by Dr. Feeder (and runs a website called Ask Dr. Feeder) told me via email that there aren’t good statistics on how widespread the practice is. “In a survey I did on Fantasy Feeder many feedees claim that their decision to gain weight and/or the amount of weight they’ve gained was strongly influenced by weight-gain sites on the internet. As a practice I’m sure it’s growing, for both those reasons and because it’s easier to find like-minded people.”

In his syndicated column Savage Love, sex advice columnist Dan Savage notes:

“We live in a society that’s deeply conflicted about fat and food: we’re not supposed to be heavy, but many of us are; we’re not supposed to eat junk food, but many of us do. Intentionally getting fat, or “forcing” someone to get fat, violates taboos about what we’re supposed to find attractive; since being fat isn’t healthy, “forcing” someone to gain weight is subtly sadistic. By “forcing” someone to eat a lot of crap, you’re pleasuring him and hurting him at the same time.”

Dr. Feeder considers being a feeder or a gainer is inborn, much like one’s sexual orientation.

“Many of us are aware of this from childhood (under 6 in my case) and whatever percentage of us that is, that probably hasn’t changed,” Dr. Feeder wrote.

“Lisa” also had early feelings on fat. At “7 or 8 years old,” according to Feederism in a Woman, she became fascinated with larger people and would pretend her Barbie dolls were gaining weight. When she was 13 years old she had a dream of a fat woman wearing a crop top dancing, her naked belly shaking around, and this was the inspiration for Lisa’s first orgasm in her sleep. “She also fantasized about being forced to gain weight and being teased for being overweight.”

I’m no psychologist, but I find it telling that Lisa’s fantasy about being teased for being fat was an early element of her sexuality. Even if it had never happened to her, it speaks to her early awareness that fat people exist, and they are teased. Perhaps developing an attraction to the thing she feared might happen to her – her mom was fat – was a coping mechanism. Might that be happening on a widespread basis?

If it is, and with obesity rates growing faster than ever, especially in children, we can expect a lot more gainers in the next generation. That’s good news for feeders, and their institutional counterparts, the food companies that happily and greedily fatten us up for an early slaughter. And maybe it’s good news for the gainers as well. After all, if you’re going to be fat, you might as well be fat and happy.

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